Habanero Peppers
by Bob Gariano
This week I picked a big plastic bag of container grown
peppers that I had cultivated in a sunny spot in a secluded corner of our
driveway this summer. I traditionally grow at least five different cultivars of
domestic peppers each summer including sweet banana peppers and several types
of spicier peppers. By far the most piquant peppers that come out of these
carefully tended plants are my orange habanero chili peppers, known in some
quarters as scotch bonnet peppers.
Scotch bonnet peppers are small, rarely more than 1.5 inches
long but they are powerful. They apparently get their name from their
distinctive shape which is said to resemble a Scottish cap or bonnet. They are
a showy and decorative orange color and when they are ready to be picked, it
means that colder weather will be close behind.
Spicy Peppers
The habanero peppers vary in how hot they are when
harvested, but the hottest are rated at over 350,000 units on the Scoville
scale. For context, the common hot chilli
peppers usually register 3,000 to 8,000 on this scale. The hot Cayenne,
Tabasco, and Cumari peppers are rated at 30,000 to 50,000 Scoville units.
Habaneras beat these milder peppers hands down.
The little habanero peppers are green when they are immature,
but they turn a bright orange when they are ready to be picked in late August.
They like slightly acidic soil conditions and even thrive when periods of
drought dry out the containers through the summer. In our temperate climate,
habanero peppers are an annual plant, but in more tropical areas they grow as
perennials, producing peppers for five to ten years on the same plants.
The precise origin of the habanero pepper is unknown but it
is thought to be one of the oldest of all cultivated crops. It is also another
plant which was developed in the New World before being exported to other
countries and geographies.
Prehistoric Origins
Several years ago an intact habanero pepper fruit was found
by anthropologists in a cave in the Peruvian highlands. This example was carbon
dated at over 6500 years B.C. The cultivation of this type of pepper spread
throughout South and Central America, carried as a valuable crop by the
indigenous people who lived there.
During the Spanish conquest of the New World, the plant was next
carried to the Caribbean and even to Africa where warm climate conditions were
suitable to its cultivation. Today, habaneras are grown in the Yucatan peninsula
as well as Costa Rica, Colombia, West Africa, and in the southern United
States.
By the 18th century, habaneras had spread throughout the tropical
regions so that its country of origin became unclear. Plant taxonomists of that
era thought that the orange scotch bonnet originated in China and gave it its
scientific name of Capsicum chinese.
In spite of this misleading nomenclature, the scotch bonnet is used most extensively
in Caribbean and West African cooking. These are the peppers that give the
islands' pork and chicken jerk dishes their unique taste. Jamaican cuisine as
well as the lesser known spicy dishes cooked in Haiti, Trinidad, Guyana, and
West Africa make use of this characteristically flavored spice.
Chemical Heat
Scotch bonnet peppers are hot but they are not the hottest
peppers. That distinction probably belongs to the Indian pepper species called
the Naga Jolokia which is grown in the Indian states of Assam and Manipur. These
peppers are rated routinely at over one million Scoville units. I grew some
Naga Jolokia peppers several years ago, but found that they were not very
useful in recipes. These peppers might best be used as a source for the
chemical capsaicin, the active ingredient in pepper spray, a non lethal
deterrent in controlling crowds or assailants. Capsaicin is the chemical that
makes peppers taste hot.
Scientists have studied capsaicin for some time for other
reasons. This chemical is found in the placental tissue surrounding the seeds
of the pepper. There are also trace amounts found throughout the rest of the pepper,
though, contrary to common perception, the seeds themselves do not contain this
chemical. It had been theorized that the capsaicin helps the pepper plant
resist diseases and fungus that seek to infest the plant. In fact, capsaicin
has been shown to be a powerful anti fungal and anti microbial agent. Recent
research has even initially indicated that the chemical may have positive
effects in combating both stomach cancer and diabetes in humans.
Birds and Mammals
But several decades ago, scientists made another remarkable
discovery about capsaicin. While most herbivores are intensively affected by
the pain of ingesting capsaicin containing plant tissues, birds completely lack
the neural receptors needed to sense this burning. Birds, therefore, are not
deterred from eating the hottest peppers. And because capsaicin is hydrophobic, ingesting water does little to
attenuate the discomfort of a mammal eating hot peppers. But birds are immune
to this sensation.
It is now clear that birds, lacking the molars needed to
grind up ingested pepper seeds, allow
the seeds to pass intact through the digestive tract. In this way, as they fly,
birds disseminate the plants throughout a large geographic area. Mammalian
herbivores, with their crushing teeth, grind up and destroy the seeds, rendering
them unable to germinate. In this way, the capsaicin becomes a means to select
which animals eat the peppers. The destructive herbivores get burned, while the
helpful birds are immune.
All of this technology does not deter my peppers from ending
up in a spicy stew of tomatoes and sausage that is a perfect accoutrement to my
home made pasta. This year I will bring my plants inside to see if they can
survive a Chicago winter on my window sill. I am supposing that they will miss
the morning sun and soft warm breezes of August. I think that they will stop
producing peppers when confined indoors. Nevertheless, it is interesting that
people more than 8000 years ago shared our attraction to these piquant and
tasty little peppers, a culinary treat that has not been obsoleted even centuries
after its discovery.
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